Going from coupler to belt

[renegade_cowboy]

I have a HM Hydracat in good running order. This unit has a coupler and I want to convert it to a belt driven unit instead. I am working with some people to build a SS frame to basically rebuild my machine from the ground up. The blower, engine and pump works great. I just want to figure out a way to redesign it so I can avoid the coupler setup and plus give a new lease on life for my equipment.

I am on my 3rd coupler and I am done with it. I would rather rebuild and get the knowledge in doing this. I will not be doing this alone.

I am just looking for a very simple design setup. I am very interested and excited to do this so here are some pics from my current unit. Why do this? Because I want to and I am not interested in buying a new machine.

Specs:
23 hp B&S V-Twin
290 Cat Pump
45 blower
3 ht heater

What do you suggest for a layout from what you see in the pics. I would love some advice.

Thanks, I know its a little crazy.

 

[Guest]

Just offset the blower behind the motor and what ever way possible make it to where you can slide it a couple 2 or 3 inches for simplicity with belt removal and reinstall the pump just needs to be parallel with the drive pulley so that can offset to the opposite side,it is so much easier when you dont have to account for heat source(HX)
I just saw the pics and your pump(like mine is mounted on top of the blower,so if you leave it there,even easier.

 

[The Magician]

I never had a problem with my Hydracat. Its going to be 30 years old. I replaced them every 35 years for good maintenace. You have a aiglment problem. Always used HM repalcements

 

[Dolly Llama]

why not look into a better coupler?

I just don't know why so many TMs shred couplers so often. :roll:


if you're building a new frame, you don't have to reinvent the wheel.
Take a look at some proven reliable blower belt set-ups and do it that way


..L.T.A.

 

[renegade_cowboy]

The machine is a 1991 and when I bought it they had to put in a B&S engine. The original engine was a onan. So they made some modifications to make the B&S fit. Its not perfectly aligned. I just pulled the engine forward to get to the coupler. I lubed it on the advice from a previous HM mechanic.

 

[Shane T]

I have an old unit with those same components. Its probably 30 years old and uses a Dodge coupler. This coupler is very forgiving. I had to replace it once in 25 years and all I did to align was turn the engine over with the mounting bolts loose on both the engine and blower. That same coupler is still on it and shows not sign of wear. I would try one on yours before you reengineer it.

 

[renegade_cowboy]

I have an old unit with those same components. Its probably 30 years old and uses a Dodge coupler. This coupler is very forgiving. I had to replace it once in 25 years and all I did to align was turn the engine over with the mounting bolts loose on both the engine and blower. That same coupler is still on it and shows not sign of wear. I would try one on yours before you reengineer it.

Not sure what coupler it is but HM charged me almost $100 for it. Its showing some stress. Maybe i should just get a judson. :roll:

 

[Shane T]

Brent, Yours is not a Dodge. This is a link to what I have. http://www.dodge-pt.com/products/pt_com ... pling.html

 

[renegade_cowboy]

The coupler i have is a 2 piece rubber setup with 25 teeth on each side. How much would it be to convert over to that dodge setup?

 

[Shane T]

I don't know what they cost these days. Go to the link above and find a local distributor. I'm sure they make one that will fit both the engine and blower shafts. I don't know how much space you have between the ends of the shafts and this may be the only hang up. I don't think the Dodge is not as wide as yours so you will need to check this.

 

[renegade_cowboy]

Thanks Shane.

 

[floorguy]

i have been thinking about rotating mine around to be a belt drive...

i want it more so i can OD the blower a little, but also to aide in ease if something breaks..

belt = 15 mins....coupler = 30 mins + and ALOT messier

 

[Ron Werner]

you can get adaptor bushings for shafts. I replaced my sheaves last spring. Just need to know your shaft size

 

[Leslie Judson Jones]

Brent,

Judson has a lot of experience with direct drive couplings. Basically if the shafts are aligned, they will hold up fairly well on an electric motor. An electric motor has a constant torque. But for some reason they don't seem to hold up too good on gas engines. I am thinking, the pulse of the engine and not having constant torque is a contributing factor.

Even though an engine appears to be spinning smoothly, every time the piston fires, there is a pulse in the rotation. It is extremely crucial that the shafts are aligned perfectly. To do this, you will need a set of shaft alignment calipers. The alignment is not limited to horizontal and vertical, it is also yaw.

Since your machine is already together, you might want to invest in a set of shaft alignment calipers and try to shim it exact and give the coupling one more try.

 

[Shane T]

Les, Have you had any experience with the Dodge coupler? I would be interested in your thoughts on them.

 

[steve g]

talk to kelly mccloy at steam action supply in utah, he has built a few machines that take a shaft and pretty much mount it where you want it, this shaft is secured by universal bearings, you use a belt to run it off the engine, then with this shaft anywhere from 2-4 ft long, you can place pretty much whatever pulley you need on it where you want it. you could mount all kinds of stuff to be run off it, on one he mounted up a 78 monte carlo alternator and ran it off the shaft, IE an alternator every parts store will stock, also this would be perfect for running the smaller generators that run kero burners, the best part is you can mount the components essentially anywhere on the frame as you have a power source running all the way down one side of the frame

 

[renegade_cowboy]

Brent,

Judson has a lot of experience with direct drive couplings. Basically if the shafts are aligned, they will hold up fairly well on an electric motor. An electric motor has a constant torque. But for some reason they don't seem to hold up too good on gas engines. I am thinking, the pulse of the engine and not having constant torque is a contributing factor.

Even though an engine appears to be spinning smoothly, every time the piston fires, there is a pulse in the rotation. It is extremely crucial that the shafts are aligned perfectly. To do this, you will need a set of shaft alignment calipers. The alignment is not limited to horizontal and vertical, it is also yaw.

Since your machine is already together, you might want to invest in a set of shaft alignment calipers and try to shim it exact and give the coupling one more try.

When they installed the B&S engine I am not sure what they did to align it. Where can i get a shaft alignment calipers so I can take care of the yaw, vertical and horizontal alignment. Last thing i want is the engine adding stress on the blower.