BlueLine Thermalwave2 summer/fall project

[BIG WOOD]

I’m taking it to the forklift later this week to move it. Rubber mats underneath are getting pulled up.

The waste tank was behind it but I think I’m gonna move it to the left side of the machine for better mounting space and ease of access to the rear and right side of the machine.

The van needs a power steering fluid reservoir, a tuneup, and a new rear door

As for the tm, the water pump needs tlc, and the 185f thermal relief valve needs replaced. . Once I get it completed, we’ll see what other issues it might have

 

[FredC]

Fixed the code 91 with replacing the donut. I'll post some pics and video soon

A new code came up. 134

I wouldn’t be surprised to see 91 return after it completes test routine unless the o2 sensor an connector get replaced first

 

[BIG WOOD]

I wouldn’t be surprised to see 91 return after it completes test routine unless the o2 sensor an connector get replaced first

I'm not running it until that new sensor comes in tomorrow. I hope you're wrong

 

[FredC]

I'm not running it until that new sensor comes in tomorrow. I hope you're wrong

Lol… why would you hope I’m wrong? The o2 sensor is possibly the root of this including the previous error. I explained why either in a post or pm

 

[BIG WOOD]

I hope you’re wrong with code 91 returning

 

[FredC]

I hope you’re wrong with code 91 returning

I’m saying I believe the fault originates in the a/f sensor

If you are changing it I don’t believe 91 will come back…..



*unless there is some wiring issue

 

[FredC]

that the o2 sensor is telling the ecu to lean things out and the maf/fps is giving a funky signal as a result


Although the usual reason for the 91 provided the maf is good is faulty wiring

 

[Living The Dream]

The guys at NAPA told me today that an O2 sensor can raise all sorts of hell. In vehicles it will cause them to run poorly and cause terrible gas mileage.

I look forward to you figuring this thing out.

 

[FredC]

I don’t know if this is normal looking. But the terminal for certain is damaged. It was wrapped with electrical tape

View attachment 120903

I don't want to jinx you but looking at that you might want to inspect the head gasket

 

[BIG WOOD]

Bad head gasket symptoms

• White smoke coming from the tailpipe.
• BUBBLING IN THE RADIATOR AND COOLANT RESERVOIR.
• unexplained coolant loss with no leaks.
• Milky white coloration in the oil.
• Engine overheating.

The engine overheating might be the only thing on that list. I measured the temp with a laser reader and the only hot spot was under the headers that read up to 285F. But...on the other side of the block it read 185ish-maybe200F. So I hope it was just from the overheated exhaust pipes causing it to read that high of a temp on the surface of the metal. Literally everywhere else on the engine was a good temp. During this headache, I constantly checked engine temp.

Another VERY GOOD REASON our lovely manufacturers need to put more gauges on these machines. Engine temp being one of them

 

[FredC]

Bad head gasket symptoms

• White smoke coming from the tailpipe.
• BUBBLING IN THE RADIATOR AND COOLANT RESERVOIR.
• unexplained coolant loss with no leaks.
• Milky white coloration in the oil.
• Engine overheating.

The engine overheating might be the only thing on that list. I measured the temp with a laser reader and the only hot spot was under the headers that read up to 285F. But...on the other side of the block it read 185ish-maybe200F. So I hope it was just from the overheated exhaust pipes causing it to read that high of a temp on the surface of the metal. Literally everywhere else on the engine was a good temp. During this headache, I constantly checked engine temp.

Another VERY GOOD REASON our lovely manufacturers need to put more gauges on these machines. Engine temp being one of them

that o2 sensor, at least from the pic, looks like coolant has been entering the combustion chamber....


head gasket is probably the best-case scenario for that. I guess it could have been replaced before and the O2 sensor not

 

[Nomad74]

Go clean carpets.

 

[Kenny Hayes]

Even if he has to do it with an Orbot

 

[BIG WOOD]

Installed the new o2 sensor on the exhaust header. I put on some antiseize on the threads to keep it from being a pain to remove and it started smoking at that location once it heated up. At low rpm it started bogging down like it wanted to stall, so I cut it off and read the code 134 again. I'll check the o2 sensor on the CAT this time once it cools down

 

[FredC]

Installed the new o2 sensor on the exhaust header. I put on some antiseize on the threads to keep it from being a pain to remove and it started smoking at that location once it heated up. At low rpm it started bogging down like it wanted to stall, so I cut it off and read the code 134 again. I'll check the o2 sensor on the CAT this time once it cools down

It shouldn't be the one on the cat causing anything.

Was that a new code or stored?

Odds are it is just trying to remap. Clear everything, make sure everything like map/any vac lines is connected, and let it run for a bit.

 

[BIG WOOD]

Ok. Yeah I forgot to disconnect the battery before this test

 

[FredC]

Ok. Yeah I forgot to disconnect the battery before this test

ecu needs reset

leave it disconnected for a while

or remove both cables and touch them together for a bit

expect some rough running at first (once warm) because it is learning...but should be minimal after reset



if it continues check voltages on o2 sensor...I've had some duds

 

[BIG WOOD]

My o2 sensor came from oreilly. It was a walker brand. Scott helped me find out that the wiring isn't matching. I wasn't in the mood to cut and splice the wires so I returned this one and ordered the direct part o2 sensor from PSI. If the wires don't match up on that one, I'll cut and splice then.

IF I have to do that, is there a universal connector plug set I can splice these wires into?

 

[FredC]

My o2 sensor came from oreilly. It was a walker brand. Scott helped me find out that the wiring isn't matching. I wasn't in the mood to cut and splice the wires so I returned this one and ordered the direct part o2 sensor from PSI. If the wires don't match up on that one, I'll cut and splice then.

IF I have to do that, is there a universal connector plug set I can splice these wires into?

It's a 4 wire heated sensor right?

you have two heater wires, a signal wire and a signal ground. What wasn't matching up?

and yes you can buy connectors....but the one from PSI is likely to be right

 

[BIG WOOD]

It's a 4 wire heated sensor right?

so you have two heater wires, a signal wire and a signal ground. What wasn't matching up?

and yes you can buy connectors

The grey and black wires needed to be diagonal from each other on the o2 sensor side. I left the paper in the van, but I can pull up the diagram online if you want me to

 

[FredC]

The grey and black wires needed to be diagonal from each other on the o2 sensor side. I left the paper in the van, but I can pull up the diagram online if you want me to

not necessary if you've confirmed it

I'd have probably switched the pins or grabbed a 4 wire connector pack at the auto store

but I also almost always go with oem/direct fit O2s

 

[BIG WOOD]

o2 sensor installed and wired correctly. Still pull code 134 and fuel pressure isn't any better. Yes, I reset it before the testing

Someone suggest I put a o2 sensor spacer on the upstream one. I don't think that'll help but you know I'm open for options. I think they put a spacer on my everest right after I bought it. I don't know if that'll help my lean issue

 

[FredC]

o2 sensor installed and wired correctly. Still pull code 134 and fuel pressure isn't any better. Yes, I reset it before the testing

how long was this test

are you sure it was reset....as in you confirmed in key on (I think you can do that)

134 would indicate that it is running open....which would be expected at the beginning of operation

I wouldn't expect a code that fast

have you checked voltages yet (o2 and fluel pump wiring)

 

[BIG WOOD]

Wasn't able to check voltage.

And just to make certain I'm resetting it correctly, I just disconnect battery for about 5min. Do Ineed to turn the key on while battery is disconnected?

 

[BIG WOOD]

The test was about 5min until it got hot, then I let it idle for 2min

 

[FredC]

Wasn't able to check voltage.

And just to make certain I'm resetting it correctly, I just disconnect battery for about 5min. Do Ineed to turn the key on while battery is disconnected?

by key on I'm saying verify that there are no codes stored before starting

if you have stored codes

touch the disconnected battery cables together for 30 seconds...should clear...maybe

 

[BIG WOOD]

I didn't touch the cables together for 30seconds. I just touched them for a second

 

[FredC]

the important part is you are verifying stored codes are cleared



there is a chance you can't clear without the software link or have to wait for it to clear itself depending on how they are stored

 

[FredC]

and I don't know how long it takes for it to perform all sensor test. I assume most don't take long


on the other hand, if you've ever had to go through the routine to get a car to be "ready" for an emissions check you know some can take a while........and particular conditions have to be met

 

[BIG WOOD]

by key on I'm saying verify that there are no codes stored before starting

if you have stored codes

touch the disconnected battery cables together for 30 seconds...should clear...maybe

Maybe it's not cleared because i just did what you said with touching the cables together for 30seconds, hooked up the battery, turned the key on and the code pulled up. I'm missing something now.

 

[FredC]

Turn the ignition off and remove the ECU power fuse for 15 seconds