Ultimate lightweight upholstery portable

[Bryce C]

Hey yall. Thumbtack's cool. My schedule is filling up and while I don't want to get ahead of myself, I am thinking ahead. We get a decent amount of jobs that are either just upholstered pieces, or rugs, or upholstered pieces and rugs. Recently I wondered if there is a good lightweight portable setup that is well made but geared towards small upholstery and rug jobs, something my wife could actually pull up stairs but still packs a punch so she could go out on her own to make a few bucks, and still do really good work. I know chemistry and technique are almost everything, but when trimming down already limited portables to something an average sized woman can pull up stairs, a well thought of setup may be really important. I thought a portable with 1 powerful vac motor, 200 or so psi, and a 1600 or 1700 watt heater that fell under a dry weight of 70 lbs would be perfect if it exists. So far the closest thing I came across is the Rotovac 150H but it's 80 lbs. My question is do you think what I am imagining is a sensible machine setup for her to go out and tackle some small easy jobs? And if so is there a higher quality make that might hit all the specs and fall under the weight goal of 70lbs? Or is this line of thinking ridiculous? I suppose a lot of folks will tell me to ditch the heat and focus on pressure and suck, maybe I should, but so far I like heat even if a lighter duty setup just bumps the temp 20 degrees or so above stuff out of the faucet. I'd love to get a sweet little used truckmount setup but that just isn't in the cards right now.

The lightweight machines that I've seen marketed as spotter/upholstery extractors seem seriously inferior with hardly any sauce, and would only do alright spotting maybe, not sure why anyone would get a machine just for spotting but I don't know much. Anyways we each are attending CCT and Upholstery Pro workshops coming up in the next few months. Until then we're just going to keep learning every day, be prudent in the field, know our limitations, and do the very best we can with our limited knowledge and setup. So far it's going well. Any advice and critiques are appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Living The Dream]

I didn't read all that, but I scanned over most of it. I own two portables and they are the only ones I have experience with. The first is a US Products Solus 310 and the second is a EDIC Bravo with heat. I've done upholstery with both of them with a upholstery tool hooked up and they have got the job done no problem. I don't recommend doing rugs in home, but the Solus would do the best, but VLM and a CRB would probably be a better choice for the rugs. If you haven't taken an upholstery class I highly recommend taking Jim Pemberton's. He will teach you how to clean, but also teach you when to walk away, which is almost as important as knowing how to clean. Best of luck!

 

[Mikey P]

I'm sure @Jim Pemberton will set you up with the perfect choice.

 

[Bryce C]

I didn't read all that, but I scanned over most of it. I own two portables and they are the only ones I have experience with. The first is a US Products Solus 310 and the second is a EDIC Bravo with heat. I've done upholstery with both of them with a upholstery tool hooked up and they have got the job done no problem. I don't recommend doing rugs in home, but the Solus would do the best, but VLM and a CRB would probably be a better choice for the rugs. If you haven't taken an upholstery class I highly recommend taking Jim Pemberton's. He will teach you how to clean, but also teach you when to walk away, which is almost as important as knowing how to clean. Best of luck!

Why not do rugs in a home if for instance it is a simple wool rug, one is positive there isn't silk in it, tested it for dye bleeding, line the floor underneath with plastic drop cloth, treats the cotton fringes carefully, and knows that things like years of urine deposits need flushing off-site? Seems odd to me that it is recommended that folks don't clean people's rugs on site, leaving people with expensive off site treatments as the only option. Yet I've already cleaned a few dozen rugs, they came out great, the people were grateful, no damage done, etc...

My wife and I are each attending Jim Pemberton's Upholstery classes down in PA this June! I appreciate the feedback on those machines. The Solus 310 looks like it would be too heavy for my wife despite being a nice setup, we're trying to find something under 80 lbs, and preferably under 70lbs. You got my curious about the EDIC Bravo. That looks like a very small low powered machine, may I ask what you use it for? Do you do entire upholstery jobs with it? If spotting then why not just use the fully functional Solus 310 if it's already on site?

Knowing when to walk away sounds really important. I imagine it can be quite a struggle for folks sometimes. Reminds me of when I was learning to forage mushrooms, learn to identify all the poisonous ones in your environment first for obvious reasons..

 

[Bryce C]

I'm sure @Jim Pemberton will set you up with the perfect choice.

Good call Mike, and I'll be meeting him soon!

For now I found this, just what I was imagining and a good make right at 70lbs. Looks pretty sweet. I'll chat with Jim about it all at the Fest https://usproducts.com/extractors/Cobra-8-0-Heated-Compact-&-Portable-Extractor-p425126512

 

[Cleanworks]

Many manufacturers make 5 gallon portables that are easy to use and fine for upholstery or small jobs. Mytee makes one that car detailers seem to like. Look up Mytee portables.

 

[Living The Dream]

Why not do rugs in a home if for instance it is a simple wool rug, one is positive there isn't silk in it, tested it for dye bleeding, line the floor underneath with plastic drop cloth, treats the cotton fringes carefully, and knows that things like years of urine deposits need flushing off-site? Seems odd to me that it is recommended that folks don't clean people's rugs on site, leaving people with expensive off site treatments as the only option. Yet I've already cleaned a few dozen rugs, they came out great, the people were grateful, no damage done, etc...

My wife and I are each attending Jim Pemberton's Upholstery classes down in PA this June! I appreciate the feedback on those machines. The Solus 310 looks like it would be too heavy for my wife despite being a nice setup, we're trying to find something under 80 lbs, and preferably under 70lbs. You got my curious about the EDIC Bravo. That looks like a very small low powered machine, may I ask what you use it for? Do you do entire upholstery jobs with it? If spotting then why not just use the fully functional Solus 310 if it's already on site?

Knowing when to walk away sounds really important. I imagine it can be quite a struggle for folks sometimes. Reminds me of when I was learning to forage mushrooms, learn to identify all the poisonous ones in your environment first for obvious reasons..

I bought the EDIC for spot treatment even though I don't really offer spot cleaning. It turned out to be a nice and powerful unit then I was expecting. I got it on auction here. I have done several pieces of upholstery with it from chairs to couches. Its just a nice handy little unit that's easy transport and setup.

The Solus is a nice unit, but it's still a pain to drag around and setup. You might wanna check into Rotovac I believe they have a powerful compact portable.

As far as rugs in the home we still do them on occasion, I just hate doing them because of the risk. If they are high end rugs they get subbed out to a rug plant. As long as your customers are finding value in you doing them keep on rocking.

 

[Bryce C]

Brilliant, thanks guys

 

[Mikey P]

Why not do rugs in a home if for instance it is a simple wool rug,

When it comes to cleaning a rug in the home, ask yourself these questions:

* Can I safely clean it without causing harm to the face fibers or foundation?
* Is there urine or feces in the rug?
* Will it shrink or distort in some way?
* Will the colors bleed?
* How do I protect the floor beneath from moisture?
* Does the rug and chosen method need accelerated drying?
* Is there a fringe and can I clean it in the home?
* Will the customer be happy with the results?

 

[Bryce C]

I've learned a little bit about each of those questions, but I know there is way more I don't know in each of those categories. And I'm surely on track to discover all my blind spots the hard way without proper training.

So far in the few areas I've explored in this trade, aside from wanting to learn everything, I really want to know what to watch out for. The poison mushrooms of carpet, rug, and upholstery cleaning. Knowing when to walk away. I'd ask you a million questions here but I imagine that would be annoying. I"ll contemplate all those questions you kindly shared and do more research. Then pray the little bit I do know keeps me out of trouble until I land in some trainings over the next few months.

 

[Mikey P]

I've learned a little bit about each of those questions, but I know there is way more I don't know in each of those categories. And I'm surely on track to discover all my blind spots the hard way without proper training.

So far in the few areas I've explored in this trade, aside from wanting to learn everything, I really want to know what to watch out for. The poison mushrooms of carpet, rug, and upholstery cleaning. Knowing when to walk away. I'd ask you a million questions here but I imagine that would be annoying. I"ll contemplate all those questions you kindly shared and do more research. Then pray the little bit I do know keeps me out of trouble until I land in some trainings over the next few months.

The In Home Rug Care section in our manual answers them all, I'll have a screaming deal on the 2nd prniting for you in GV

 

[Bryce C]

Alright a few questions about rugs For wool I currently have Bridgepoint's Wool Perfect, Wool Medic, and Wool Zone. I'm learning a bunch reading back through posts on the site.

*For now even if I see small amounts of bleeding should I kindly refuse it rather than going for it with a Wool Medic pretreatment to be safe? Or is small amounts easily manageable if I use the Bridgepoint products I mentioned above thoughtfully?

*In instances where putting plastic lining underneath a rug isn't possible (large furniture), is it ok to use a low moisture tool with extra dry passes as long as the customer is informed of their options and agrees to a "light cleaning"?

*Is low heat (150ish I think, depending) on my portable ok on wool rugs that don't show dye bleeding?

*If I was to clean one that showed small amounts of dye bleeding does this sound reasonable: to do a pretreatment with Wool Medic, clean it with Wool Perfect and CWE, use Wool Zone as an acid rinse, low psi and lots of dry passes, and accelerate the drying using air movers?

*What are things to look for during inspection that would indicate fiber distortion will be an issue? And if so is it still cleanable without damaging it further?

*With cotton fringes do you think misting or dry foaming Bridgepoint's Oxybuff on them and either using a cotton towel or a brush of sorts to clean and groom them at the same time is a safe and slightly effective bet in most instances? Is there a better way I should consider? When should I not touch cotton fringes?

 

[Bryce C]

Well, I sent that the same time you did

Ok right on. What manual? One that you and others here put together?

 

[Mikey P]

Alright a few questions about rugs For wool I currently have Bridgepoint's Wool Perfect, Wool Medic, and Wool Zone. I'm learning a bunch reading back through posts on the site.

*For now even if I see small amounts of bleeding should I kindly refuse it rather than going for it with a Wool Medic pretreatment to be safe? Or is small amounts easily manageable if I use the Bridgepoint products I mentioned above thoughtfully?

*In instances where putting plastic lining underneath a rug isn't possible (large furniture), is it ok to use a low moisture tool with extra dry passes as long as the customer is informed of their options and agrees to a "light cleaning"?

*Is low heat (150ish I think, depending) on my portable ok on wool rugs that don't show dye bleeding?

*If I was to clean one that showed small amounts of dye bleeding does this sound reasonable: to do a pretreatment with Wool Medic, clean it with Wool Perfect and CWE, use Wool Zone as an acid rinse, low psi and lots of dry passes, and accelerate the drying using air movers?

*What are things to look for during inspection that would indicate fiber distortion will be an issue? And if so is it still cleanable without damaging it further?

*With cotton fringes do you think misting or dry foaming Bridgepoint's Oxybuff on them and either using a cotton towel or a brush of sorts to clean and groom them at the same time is a safe and slightly effective bet in most instances? Is there a better way I should consider? When should I not touch cotton fringes?

Lucky for you, there will be many reps from ARCS in GV..

Association of Rug Care Specialists | 503-949-9700

The preeminent trade association dedicated solely to the art and science of rug care. To be a member of ARCS, companies and individuals must be dedicated to the association's highest standards. Find a local rug care specialist, join our association or attend one of our classes or events!

www.rugcarespecialists.org

 

[Bryce C]

Sweet! I'm going to try really hard to not stay up all night thinking about this before I take off early am to go clean more rugs

 

[BIG WOOD]

Alright a few questions about rugs For wool I currently have Bridgepoint's Wool Perfect, Wool Medic, and Wool Zone. I'm learning a bunch reading back through posts on the site.

*For now even if I see small amounts of bleeding should I kindly refuse it rather than going for it with a Wool Medic pretreatment to be safe? Or is small amounts easily manageable if I use the Bridgepoint products I mentioned above thoughtfully?

*In instances where putting plastic lining underneath a rug isn't possible (large furniture), is it ok to use a low moisture tool with extra dry passes as long as the customer is informed of their options and agrees to a "light cleaning"?

*Is low heat (150ish I think, depending) on my portable ok on wool rugs that don't show dye bleeding?

*If I was to clean one that showed small amounts of dye bleeding does this sound reasonable: to do a pretreatment with Wool Medic, clean it with Wool Perfect and CWE, use Wool Zone as an acid rinse, low psi and lots of dry passes, and accelerate the drying using air movers?

*What are things to look for during inspection that would indicate fiber distortion will be an issue? And if so is it still cleanable without damaging it further?

*With cotton fringes do you think misting or dry foaming Bridgepoint's Oxybuff on them and either using a cotton towel or a brush of sorts to clean and groom them at the same time is a safe and slightly effective bet in most instances? Is there a better way I should consider? When should I not touch cotton fringes?

*If you see small amounts of bleeding, the rug is not a candidate to be cleaned on site. you should find a rug washing facility to start networking with.
*My opinion on putting plastic lining under all legs is: I rarely do that anymore because I refuse to move any furniture that is still in place. Sure, I'll slide couches around (with plastic legs) and move little chairs and recliners. But we're not a furniture moving company, we clean carpet. I've had very few complaints about it.
*Your temperature is perfect for wool rugs
*Don't ever give the option to do a "Light cleaning". We are professionals and professionals do Deep Cleaning only
*Cleaning Doesn't affect or cause fiber distortion
*If you feel cotton fringe needs to be cleaned at the customer's home, the driveway with a tarp underneath needs to be under it and doing a minor washing on site is the only option. I'm strongly against doing any dry cleaning or oxy on cotton. It's a natural fiber and very absorbent and needs to be flushed. It's not like plastic fibers that are adsorbent and don't soak up the cleaning material.

Some of the rug gurus that know much more than me might disagree, but I'm giving you insight on cleaning them on site, not in a rug shop so keep that in mind.

I'm glad you're absorbing so much good tips. Keep up the insights

 

[Mikey P]

*If you see small amounts of bleeding, the rug is not a candidate to be cleaned on site. you should find a rug washing facility to start networking with.
*My opinion on putting plastic lining under all legs is: I rarely do that anymore because I refuse to move any furniture that is still in place. Sure, I'll slide couches around (with plastic legs) and move little chairs and recliners. But we're not a furniture moving company, we clean carpet. I've had very few complaints about it.
*Your temperature is perfect for wool rugs
*Don't ever give the option to do a "Light cleaning". We are professionals and professionals do Deep Cleaning only
*Cleaning Doesn't affect or cause fiber distortion
*If you feel cotton fringe needs to be cleaned at the customer's home, the driveway with a tarp underneath needs to be under it and doing a minor washing on site is the only option. I'm strongly against doing any dry cleaning or oxy on cotton. It's a natural fiber and very absorbent and needs to be flushed. It's not like plastic fibers that are adsorbent and don't soak up the cleaning material.

Some of the rug gurus that know much more than me might disagree, but I'm giving you insight on cleaning them on site, not in a rug shop so keep that in mind.

I'm glad you're absorbing so much good tips. Keep up the insights

ChatGPT comes in a hillbilly version?

 

[Bryce C]

*If you see small amounts of bleeding, the rug is not a candidate to be cleaned on site. you should find a rug washing facility to start networking with.
*My opinion on putting plastic lining under all legs is: I rarely do that anymore because I refuse to move any furniture that is still in place. Sure, I'll slide couches around (with plastic legs) and move little chairs and recliners. But we're not a furniture moving company, we clean carpet. I've had very few complaints about it.
*Your temperature is perfect for wool rugs
*Don't ever give the option to do a "Light cleaning". We are professionals and professionals do Deep Cleaning only
*Cleaning Doesn't affect or cause fiber distortion
*If you feel cotton fringe needs to be cleaned at the customer's home, the driveway with a tarp underneath needs to be under it and doing a minor washing on site is the only option. I'm strongly against doing any dry cleaning or oxy on cotton. It's a natural fiber and very absorbent and needs to be flushed. It's not like plastic fibers that are adsorbent and don't soak up the cleaning material.

Some of the rug gurus that know much more than me might disagree, but I'm giving you insight on cleaning them on site, not in a rug shop so keep that in mind.

I'm glad you're absorbing so much good tips. Keep up the insights

This is gold thank you. I just looked up a few rug washing facilities near me, I'll get in touch with them and see who seems solid to point people toward when it's out of my league. Thanks for explaining so much of the "why" behind certain do's and don'ts, it really helps me integrate this stuff.