Thermo Relief Valve question

aaronjumps

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The thermo relief valve on my 2014 CDS 4.8 gave up the ghost. We are in Texas so it gets hot in the summer.

Looked in the manual and it calls for a replacement rated for 165 degrees.

Called Jon Don and the tech support guy said “most guys are replacing that with the 180 degree valve.”

I am inclined to go with the OEM spec thought I would ask here. What say you @The Great Oz
 
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BIG WOOD

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The thermo relief valve on my 2014 CDS 4.8 gave up the ghost. We are in Texas so it gets hot in the summer.

Looked in the manual and it calls for a replacement rated for 165 degrees.

Called Jon Don and the tech support guy said “most guys are replacing that with the 180 degree valve.”

I am inclined to go with the OEM spec thought I would ask here. What say you @Bryan.
What kind of water pump do you have? does it have a high temp kit in it?
 
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SamIam

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Look and see if this is what your looks like it's pretty standard and shows up on jondon as a replacement part
 

aaronjumps

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are you bypassing too much water?
I am. One day I will get 3 apartments out of my 100 gallon onboard fresh tank, the next day I got 1 and was bone dry.

Tested it by looking in the water box during a cold start up machine with the vacuum ports blocked. The water box was full at start box and in 30 seconds later it was half. These no way to water would warm quickly enough to trigger the thermo relief valve.
 

FredC

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I am. One day I will get 3 apartments out of my 100 gallon onboard fresh tank, the next day I got 1 and was bone dry.

Tested it by looking in the water box during a cold start up machine with the vacuum ports blocked. The water box was full at start box and in 30 seconds later it was half. These no way to water would warm quickly enough to trigger the thermo relief valve.

I assume that is the current one being screwed up. I mean when the 165 one is working properly. If it is just a recent issue I'd say a 165 is fine. If bypass is a constant issue 180 keeping in mind it may eventually cause pump issues.
 

aaronjumps

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I assume that is the current one being screwed up. I mean when the 165 one is working properly. If it is just a recent issue I'd say a 165 is fine. If bypass is a constant issue 180 keeping in mind it may eventually cause pump issues.
That’s a good thought.
 

SamIam

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Yup, that’s what I found also. The issue was the Jon Don guy basically saying all the cool kids are doing 180. That’s why I came to where the cool kids, who actually know what they’re talking about, hang out.
Nobody here has a cds except Ron oh yeah he's kinda cool
 

SamIam

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My pro1200 se has a general pump and a 165 temp relief.

I'm wondering if a 180 would produce more heat?

Mine never bypasses until the temp relief fails then it's very noticeable.



I've replaced 1 in 3000 hours.
 
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aaronjumps

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My pro1200 se has a general pump and a 165 temp relief.

I'm wondering if a 180 would produce more heat?

Mine never bypasses until the temp relief fails then it's very noticeable.



I've replaced 1 in 3000 hours.
I am certainly no expert, but my understanding is it is kinda like a break glass in case of emergency valve and not something that would increase heat earlier in the flow path.
 
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Mike J

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I have the cds 4.8 year 2016. I been through this also. Currently I have the 180 brass. The 165 was composite. when I had the 165 it seemed I was bypassing too much. When I blocked the vacuum it did not pull the water (cold)from the box to the waste tank, but think it started bypassing under 165. 185 seems fine.
 
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