Mikey P
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- Oct 6, 2006
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I was cleaning the dash in my pickup truck today and use the same product to get some dog slobber off the synthetic upholstery.. The somewhat alarming but effective foaming action on the stains caused me to make this inquiry
My question to Gemini.
Can you search the manufacturer's website as well as any discussion forums or mention of this product and come up with a reason that it couldn't be used on natural fabrics and calcium-based stone or synthetic fabrics in any wall-to-wall carpet type. Considering it's ammonia-free I'm wondering what the pH is but since it leaves no residue what harm could it cause to the above mentioned surfaces
That's an excellent question, and your reasoning is sound, but you've correctly identified that there must be a catch. You're right that the harm isn't from ammonia, but it comes from two other key factors: the solvent ingredients and the product's pH level.
Based on my research into the product's ingredients (from your photo), its Safety Data Sheet (SDS), and forum discussions, here is why it should not be used on those surfaces.
1. The pH Level (The Problem for Stone)
You are wondering about the pH, and that is the exact problem for calcium-based stone.
* The pH: The Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for Sprayway Glass Cleaner lists its pH in the 9.5 - 10.5 range. This is moderately to highly alkaline (basic).
* The Harm: Calcium-based stones (like marble, limestone, and travertine) are chemically sensitive. They are famous for being damaged by acids (like vinegar), but they are also damaged by strong bases (alkalines). This high-alkaline cleaner will etch the stone. Etching is a chemical burn that dulls the surface, removes the polish, and leaves a permanent cloudy mark that looks like a "water spot" but cannot be wiped away.
* Manufacturer's "Proof": My search confirms that Sprayway manufactures and sells a completely separate product called "Sprayway Granite & Marble Cleaner." This product is specifically pH-balanced and formulated not to damage stone or its sealer, which strongly implies their standard glass cleaner is not safe for this purpose.
2. The Solvents (The Problem for Fabrics)
The ingredient list you photographed contains several potent solvents, primarily Butoxyethanol and t-Butyl Alcohol. These are fantastic for dissolving oil and grime on glass but are disastrous for fabrics and carpet.
* Dye Damage: These solvents are strong enough to dissolve the dyes in natural and synthetic fabrics. This can cause the color to bleed, fade, or create a permanent light spot. This is the biggest and most irreversible risk.
* Fiber Damage (Natural): For a natural fabric like wool, the high alkaline pH (10.5) is catastrophic. Wool is a protein fiber, and high alkalinity chemically damages it, causing it to become brittle and yellow.
* "No Residue" Claim is Misleading: The "streak-free" and "no residue" claim applies only to non-porous glass. On a porous surface like carpet or fabric, the foaming agents and surfactants (soaps) in the cleaner will get trapped deep in the fibers and will be impossible to fully remove. This sticky residue acts like a dirt magnet, causing the "clean" spot to become a dark, dirty patch over time.
* Stain-Guard Removal: On most wall-to-wall carpets, these powerful solvents will strip away any factory-applied stain guard (like Scotchgard), making that area more susceptible to future stains.
In summary: You are right to be wary. The "ammonia-free" label simply means one specific harsh chemical is absent. The product is still a powerful, high-pH, solvent-based cleaner formulated only for hard, non-porous surfaces. Using it on sensitive stone or fabric is highly likely to cause permanent chemical damage (etching or dye removal).
Follow up
How about synthetic fabric blends or otherwise and nylon and polyester carpet
That's a great follow-up. For synthetics like nylon and polyester, using that glass cleaner is still a high-risk idea, and in some ways, even worse than on wool.
The problems are the solvents and the high pH, which have specific, damaging effects on synthetic fibers and their coatings.
Here are the specific reasons it shouldn't be used on synthetic carpets or fabrics:
1. Stripping the Stain-Resist Coating
This is the most significant problem. Nearly all modern residential nylon and polyester carpets are treated with a topical, factory-applied stain-resist coating (like Scotchgard or a similar acid-blocker).
* Solvents: The powerful solvents in the glass cleaner (Butoxyethanol, t-Butyl Alcohol) are designed to cut through grease and grime. They will do the same to that protective coating, chemically stripping it from the fibers.
* Result: You will permanently remove the stain protection in that spot, making it more vulnerable to all future stains.
2. Dye Bleeding (Especially on Nylon)
While synthetic dyes are generally more stable than natural ones, they are not immune, especially to a high-pH solvent.
* Nylon: Most nylon carpet is acid-dyed. Applying a strong alkaline cleaner (pH 9.5-10.5) can break the chemical bond between the dye and the fiber, causing the color to bleed or fade. You are essentially using a mild dye-remover.
* Polyester: Polyester is more colorfast and resistant to pH swings, but the combination of high alkalinity and strong solvents can still cause some dyes to bleed.
3. The "Dirt Magnet" Residue
This is a guaranteed problem. The "no residue" and "streak-free" claim is only valid for a non-porous, hard surface like glass.
* Fabric is Porous: On carpet or fabric, those foaming agents and surfactants (soaps) will get trapped at the base of the fibers and in the backing.
* Re-soiling: You cannot rinse or blot all of that sticky residue out. That residue becomes a "dirt magnet," attracting new soil to the area. The spot will look clean for a day and then rapidly become a dark, dirty patch that's much worse than the original spot.
4. Backing and Construction Damage
The solvents can also be harmful to the carpet's construction.
* Latex Breakdown: Those solvents can attack the latex used in the carpet's backing (which holds the primary and secondary backings together). This can cause the carpet to delaminate (separate) or become stiff and brittle over time.
In short: You are trading a potential stain for a guaranteed residue problem and a very high risk of permanent chemical damage to the carpet's dyes and stain-resist coating.
Follow up
Well I guess I better stick to glass and plastic but how about my friend's dentures he's from Alabama and had to go cheap and they're probably made from recycled porcelain or possibly laminated Chiclets gum, you think it's safe to brighten up and clean the Waffle House syrup from his po-boy chompers?
Answer
That is a hilarious image, but please, do not let him do that.
This is a serious safety issue. You should absolutely NOT use Sprayway Glass Cleaner, or any household cleaner, on his dentures.
Here’s why it’s a terrible idea, both for his "chompers" and for him:
* It's Toxic: The solvents you were just asking about (Butoxyethanol, t-Butyl Alcohol) are not safe for ingestion. Dentures are made of porous acrylic resin. They will absorb those chemicals, and your friend will be ingesting them all day. The can clearly warns against ingestion and even prolonged skin contact.
* It Will Destroy the Dentures: Forget cleaning them, the solvents will ruin them. The alcohols and butoxyethanol will attack the acrylic resin (the pink "gum" part and the teeth), making the plastic brittle, cloudy, and causing micro-fractures called "crazing." The dentures will be destroyed.
The Safe and Correct Way:
He needs to use products designed for dentures, which are cheap and available at any drugstore or supermarket:
* Denture cleaning tablets (like Polident or Efferdent)
* Mild, unscented dish soap (like basic Dawn) or hand soap, applied with a soft denture brush (not a regular toothbrush, which is too hard).
So, no. Stick to glass. Using it on his dentures is a fast way to get a mouthful of poison and a ruined set of teeth.


My question to Gemini.
Can you search the manufacturer's website as well as any discussion forums or mention of this product and come up with a reason that it couldn't be used on natural fabrics and calcium-based stone or synthetic fabrics in any wall-to-wall carpet type. Considering it's ammonia-free I'm wondering what the pH is but since it leaves no residue what harm could it cause to the above mentioned surfaces
That's an excellent question, and your reasoning is sound, but you've correctly identified that there must be a catch. You're right that the harm isn't from ammonia, but it comes from two other key factors: the solvent ingredients and the product's pH level.
Based on my research into the product's ingredients (from your photo), its Safety Data Sheet (SDS), and forum discussions, here is why it should not be used on those surfaces.
1. The pH Level (The Problem for Stone)
You are wondering about the pH, and that is the exact problem for calcium-based stone.
* The pH: The Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for Sprayway Glass Cleaner lists its pH in the 9.5 - 10.5 range. This is moderately to highly alkaline (basic).
* The Harm: Calcium-based stones (like marble, limestone, and travertine) are chemically sensitive. They are famous for being damaged by acids (like vinegar), but they are also damaged by strong bases (alkalines). This high-alkaline cleaner will etch the stone. Etching is a chemical burn that dulls the surface, removes the polish, and leaves a permanent cloudy mark that looks like a "water spot" but cannot be wiped away.
* Manufacturer's "Proof": My search confirms that Sprayway manufactures and sells a completely separate product called "Sprayway Granite & Marble Cleaner." This product is specifically pH-balanced and formulated not to damage stone or its sealer, which strongly implies their standard glass cleaner is not safe for this purpose.
2. The Solvents (The Problem for Fabrics)
The ingredient list you photographed contains several potent solvents, primarily Butoxyethanol and t-Butyl Alcohol. These are fantastic for dissolving oil and grime on glass but are disastrous for fabrics and carpet.
* Dye Damage: These solvents are strong enough to dissolve the dyes in natural and synthetic fabrics. This can cause the color to bleed, fade, or create a permanent light spot. This is the biggest and most irreversible risk.
* Fiber Damage (Natural): For a natural fabric like wool, the high alkaline pH (10.5) is catastrophic. Wool is a protein fiber, and high alkalinity chemically damages it, causing it to become brittle and yellow.
* "No Residue" Claim is Misleading: The "streak-free" and "no residue" claim applies only to non-porous glass. On a porous surface like carpet or fabric, the foaming agents and surfactants (soaps) in the cleaner will get trapped deep in the fibers and will be impossible to fully remove. This sticky residue acts like a dirt magnet, causing the "clean" spot to become a dark, dirty patch over time.
* Stain-Guard Removal: On most wall-to-wall carpets, these powerful solvents will strip away any factory-applied stain guard (like Scotchgard), making that area more susceptible to future stains.
In summary: You are right to be wary. The "ammonia-free" label simply means one specific harsh chemical is absent. The product is still a powerful, high-pH, solvent-based cleaner formulated only for hard, non-porous surfaces. Using it on sensitive stone or fabric is highly likely to cause permanent chemical damage (etching or dye removal).
Follow up
How about synthetic fabric blends or otherwise and nylon and polyester carpet
That's a great follow-up. For synthetics like nylon and polyester, using that glass cleaner is still a high-risk idea, and in some ways, even worse than on wool.
The problems are the solvents and the high pH, which have specific, damaging effects on synthetic fibers and their coatings.
Here are the specific reasons it shouldn't be used on synthetic carpets or fabrics:
1. Stripping the Stain-Resist Coating
This is the most significant problem. Nearly all modern residential nylon and polyester carpets are treated with a topical, factory-applied stain-resist coating (like Scotchgard or a similar acid-blocker).
* Solvents: The powerful solvents in the glass cleaner (Butoxyethanol, t-Butyl Alcohol) are designed to cut through grease and grime. They will do the same to that protective coating, chemically stripping it from the fibers.
* Result: You will permanently remove the stain protection in that spot, making it more vulnerable to all future stains.
2. Dye Bleeding (Especially on Nylon)
While synthetic dyes are generally more stable than natural ones, they are not immune, especially to a high-pH solvent.
* Nylon: Most nylon carpet is acid-dyed. Applying a strong alkaline cleaner (pH 9.5-10.5) can break the chemical bond between the dye and the fiber, causing the color to bleed or fade. You are essentially using a mild dye-remover.
* Polyester: Polyester is more colorfast and resistant to pH swings, but the combination of high alkalinity and strong solvents can still cause some dyes to bleed.
3. The "Dirt Magnet" Residue
This is a guaranteed problem. The "no residue" and "streak-free" claim is only valid for a non-porous, hard surface like glass.
* Fabric is Porous: On carpet or fabric, those foaming agents and surfactants (soaps) will get trapped at the base of the fibers and in the backing.
* Re-soiling: You cannot rinse or blot all of that sticky residue out. That residue becomes a "dirt magnet," attracting new soil to the area. The spot will look clean for a day and then rapidly become a dark, dirty patch that's much worse than the original spot.
4. Backing and Construction Damage
The solvents can also be harmful to the carpet's construction.
* Latex Breakdown: Those solvents can attack the latex used in the carpet's backing (which holds the primary and secondary backings together). This can cause the carpet to delaminate (separate) or become stiff and brittle over time.
In short: You are trading a potential stain for a guaranteed residue problem and a very high risk of permanent chemical damage to the carpet's dyes and stain-resist coating.
Follow up
Well I guess I better stick to glass and plastic but how about my friend's dentures he's from Alabama and had to go cheap and they're probably made from recycled porcelain or possibly laminated Chiclets gum, you think it's safe to brighten up and clean the Waffle House syrup from his po-boy chompers?
Answer
That is a hilarious image, but please, do not let him do that.
This is a serious safety issue. You should absolutely NOT use Sprayway Glass Cleaner, or any household cleaner, on his dentures.
Here’s why it’s a terrible idea, both for his "chompers" and for him:
* It's Toxic: The solvents you were just asking about (Butoxyethanol, t-Butyl Alcohol) are not safe for ingestion. Dentures are made of porous acrylic resin. They will absorb those chemicals, and your friend will be ingesting them all day. The can clearly warns against ingestion and even prolonged skin contact.
* It Will Destroy the Dentures: Forget cleaning them, the solvents will ruin them. The alcohols and butoxyethanol will attack the acrylic resin (the pink "gum" part and the teeth), making the plastic brittle, cloudy, and causing micro-fractures called "crazing." The dentures will be destroyed.
The Safe and Correct Way:
He needs to use products designed for dentures, which are cheap and available at any drugstore or supermarket:
* Denture cleaning tablets (like Polident or Efferdent)
* Mild, unscented dish soap (like basic Dawn) or hand soap, applied with a soft denture brush (not a regular toothbrush, which is too hard).
So, no. Stick to glass. Using it on his dentures is a fast way to get a mouthful of poison and a ruined set of teeth.

