Soft touch wand valves ---->(GREENHORN)<-------

[B&BGaryC]

I haven't had my greenhorn for more than 2 years and I've gone through 2 valves, quite a few rebuild kits.... and now I need another.... Or maybe I"m a total twit...

The spring in the valve breaks, the little pieces jumble around and the valve gets stuck in the open position. I open it up, remove the bits and continue using it without the spring for a while, then I rebuild it. Do I really need to rebuild it? What the heck is the point of that weak spring anyway? Just to keep the valve handle out?

 

[Guest]

same thing happened to me last night - luckily I had a cut off valve at the wand and finshed the job by making a wet pass then turning off the valve .

I try to keep a few extra kits available because there is no pattern or set time when they go - could last 6 months , could last 6 days .

 

[Kevin. McCreary]

I notice when Im using a hot truckmount they seem to go out faster. In the winter when the temps ATW are lower, they don't seem to give us trouble.

 

[Bob Foster]

10 minute change out. I keep a complete assembly on hand to make the change out fast.If you do lots of cleaning it seems reasonable to have to change it out a couple of times a year. Having said that, I'm still on my original valve which went into service about 14 months ago with no maintenance to it at all.

I know if you run very high heat the O-Rings start to complain and will detriorate sooner than if you run regular TM temperatures.

 

[GeneMiller]

definitely the high heat will kill them. i carry a spare on the truck and just replace the whole thing. it's been the longest lasting valve so far. easy on the hand too.

gene

 

[truckmount girl]

Unfortunately, lifespan is and has been an issue on those valves, especially the stainless version. maybe Jeff will come along with his useful tips for rebuilding them.

Fortunately, they are cheap, both to buy new and to rebuild. A tougher spring will cause a harder pull.

Maybe Steve will see this and address the complexities of making a valve which is durable and long lasting, smooth and easy to pull, not too bulky and/or heavy. Even if expensive, it would be a big seller.

Take care,
Lisa

 

[B&BGaryC]

I run 240-250 ATM sometimes.

It's an easy fix, it just sucks when a customer comes around asking what's going on and sees you shutting down the truck and taking apart the wand in the driveway.

Does it hurt anything to run it without a spring?

 

[Out of Character - 0]

Gary, Did you bend the handle to shorten the trigger stroke, if not you should. Place something (I use a screwdriver handle) between the trigger and the wand, as far forward as you can, then bend the trigger until it is about 1/2 from the wand tube. Short pull= easy on spring

 

[Greenie]

Jess E nailed it.

You only need the "pin" in the valve to depress 1/8", that translates to very LITTLE trigger pull.

On the earlier Greenhorns I left the triggers in teh stock configuration, in the later ones I "tweaked" the trigger so the trigger contacts the 2" tube before "bottoming out" and mashing the spring and teflon seat to all hell.

It's likely your "replacement" brass valve just wasn't "tweaked", go in and tell Micah to tweak them all.

Also, always use a silicone spray (not WD 40) on the orings when rebuilding, and give the guts a shot of silicone once a week if you remember to, even a little shot at the top of the stem and a few actuations helps a bunch, and it's easy to do, while you are at it, hit yoru female QDs at the same time.

 

[KevinD]

I use a Teflon based O ring lube called Magic Lube (Google it),
It is rated up to 425 degrees.

 

[Lyman]

i THINK MAGIC WANDS VALVES ARE THE SAME and there spring in there rebuild kit is better. I have not broke a spring ever.


Talk about jinksing yourself, oh well.

 

[Greenie]

Magic wand does indeed sell the FeatherTouch, and they sell the exact same rebuild kit, same spring. Bend the trigger a little, the problems with broken spring will go away.

 

[Chris A]

I haven't had my greenhorn for more than 2 years and I've gone through 2 valves, quite a few rebuild kits.... and now I need another.... Or maybe I"m a total twit...

The spring in the valve breaks, the little pieces jumble around and the valve gets stuck in the open position. I open it up, remove the bits and continue using it without the spring for a while, then I rebuild it. Do I really need to rebuild it? What the heck is the point of that weak spring anyway? Just to keep the valve handle out?

Mine went out recently too, I had a couple days of drippage before the spring gave out though, unless that was a coincidence?

 

[Bob Savage]

Greenie,

Is this "feather touch" valve the Precision valve that you sent me?

 

[CarpetKING]

Since i have had my El Diablo (about 4 months) we've burned through at least four valves - I've found its easier to just replace the valve than doing the spring kit. I can get the valves $20 a pop including shipping. I think the heat and pressure really take a toll on the valves. We very rarely run the diesel burner above 240 either...Cant imagine how many we would go through at the max 302 setting. That being said I still like the soft touch valve.

 

[steve g]

one of the things that makes the prochem wands the best is the absolute hands down best wand valve ever put on a wand, its heavy duty, handles heat and pressure, no other wand valve even comes close to comparing

 

[roro]

It's an easy fix, it just sucks when a customer comes around asking what's going on and sees you shutting down the truck and taking apart the wand in the driveway.

I always carry a second wand on the truck (it has slightly different jetting) so no time lost if one ever went phut during a job. To me repairing gear at a customer's place should be avoided as it gives a negative impression.

roro

 

[Greenie]

Greenie,

Is this "feather touch" valve the Precision valve that you sent me?

No Bob, that is the $129 NASA valve, it'll last forever.

These guys are talking about the westpak feathertouch brass valve.

 

[CraigT]

The reason for the spring being there is to provide extra assurance to get the ball in the correct position. As Jess E and Greenie mentioned, you may want or need to get that handle closer to the vacuum tube. We use a screwdriver in our shop for those.

I've brought the "weak" spring issue up with Steve and we'll be looking at any changes that may have happened with our last production of these valves.

We've improved the smoothness of the bore next to the stem on our current Stainless Steel valves which has improved the lifespan.

This is the first I've heard of the NASA valve, where can I find some info on it Greenie?

Steve G, have you tried our Stainless Steel valve before? I'll send you a free one with the retrofit kit which will provide a direct replacement with any Prochem valve. Send me a PM if you're interested.

 

[Jack May]

It's an easy fix, it just sucks when a customer comes around asking what's going on and sees you shutting down the truck and taking apart the wand in the driveway.

I always carry a second wand on the truck (it has slightly different jetting) so no time lost if one ever went phut during a job. To me repairing gear at a customer's place should be avoided as it gives a negative impression.roro

Worth repeating Ross.

Good advice that I picked up a few years back and try to follow.

John

 

[pHilh]

http://www.powerclean.com.au/store/deta ... A42-01.jpg

Put one of these on ,they are far superior in every way to the soft touch.


Standard feature on Australian Greenhorn wands.

 

[Greenie]

That is the Nasa valve, it would be a $75 upgrade on a stock US Greenhorn, nice valve, and now withe the new spring (thank you testers), it's the Cadillac.

Currently I fit all kingston mountings/Greenhorns and Prochem mountings, and paraplate in the future.

I'll get a pic of a Prochem ready valve up soon, need to download the camera.

 

[Ron Werner]

I've been using my gh for over a year now. no problems.
I'm at 200f, with 15 flow.