VCT Burnishing between coats??

Goomer

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Is burnishing between coats worth the effort?

Seems it's really a key to achieving a "mirror" finish when finishing VCT if you want to go the extra mile.

Burnish every or every other coat?

Just the top coat?

More the better?

Depends on condition/environment/traffic?

Over-rated?
 
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dealtimeman

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It will work and depend on the finish you are using.

Really your biggest difference would be burnishing before you begin applying the first coat.

Just remember that you will need to dust mop very well between burnishing. Also need to very knowledgeable on wich pad to use as you don't want to burn the finish.

This practice was used more old school, now days levels of clarity and shine are achieved by coats and grades/type of correctly applied finishes.
 
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Goomer

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It will work and depend on the finish you are using.

Really your biggest difference would be burnishing before you begin applying the first coat.

Just remember that you will need to dust op very well between burnishing. Also need to very knowledgeable on wich pad to use as you don't want to burn the finish.

This practice was used more old school, now days levels of clarity and shine are achieved by coats and grades/type of correctly applied finishes.

Interesting.

I thought I read that burnishing the first coat was most valuable as it would build a harder and smoother foundation.
 

Goomer

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now days levels of clarity and shine are achieved by coats and grades/type of correctly applied finishes.

How are these newer grade/type finishes differentiated from the "standard" finishes labeling/spec wise?

What would one look for when comparing products while searching for the good stuffs?

Solid content?

Anything else?
 

Shorty

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I did my first strip & seal back in '71.

After stripping off the old finish and neutralising the stripper with vinegar (acetic acid), I would then burnish the floor with a red pad.

Back then, our fastest machine was a 175rpm.

This would help seal the pores in the vinyl via friction heat from the pad.

Thus it would stop the sealer/finish from penetrating deeper into the vinyl and wasting it.

First coat would go right to the wall.

Subsequent coats would stay one mop width away from the wall.

We worked on the theory that future spray burnishing would meld the finish and push it closer to the wall.

Many jobs we saw had a build up of excess polish close to the wall.

After each coat of polish I would lightly buff using a white pad, MAKING SURE FINISH WAS FULLY DRY FIRST. :icon_redface:

This would give more depth & reflectivity to the polish.

New polishes and faster equipment have made some of these steps now obsolete.

Hope this helps.

:yoda:
 

dealtimeman

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Listen to the wise one above.

If anyone ATTEMPTS TO BURNISH A FLOOR THAT IS NOT 1000% DRY, YOU WILL TRIPLE THE TIME THE JOB WILL TAKE YOU AND BRING MUCH FRUSTRATION UPON YOURSELF.
 
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dealtimeman

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How are these newer grade/type finishes differentiated from the "standard" finishes labeling/spec wise?

What would one look for when comparing products while searching for the good stuffs?

Solid content?

Anything else?

Not all waxes/finishes are made to be equal and that is by design.

You want to look at what the molecular composition/structure of the finish is and what scenarios that finish was designed for.

In other words there are finishes that are better for supermarkets that you wouldn't want to put in a school and vise versus.

There are finishes that need more Maintenance than others or you would pick a finished based on the fact that it would have a more frequent burnishing regiment, or not so frequent burnishing.

Is the floor going to be scrubbed often? How often? This would affect your descision in picking the finish.

When picking a finish you will want to specifically pick the finish based on solids and its structure for example a metal interlocking finish is more ideal I. Scenarios where burnishing will more than likely never take place, and is design for this and holds up well in various scenarios like store rooms and low traffic areas.

Please consider that the whole idea around stripping and waxing a floor is not to make the floor shiny, it is to dramatically raise the dry slip resistance and protect the VCT (the actual tile material) from damage. The finish companies have just gotten that good at making clear finishes.

Also consider how the finish will lay or self level. When I started throwing wax about 20 years ago, we would use a "special finish mop". It was so special because if i didnt take care of it my uncle would kick my ass.

It was composed of fine strands woven together and bound across the bottom
( will try and find a picture of the mop). The mop would hold a great amount of wax and you would need to pay attention as you applied the wax to ensure you weren't leaving any lines or the dreaded BUBBLES!

Bubbles were very common as everyone and there mom thought they could throw higher solid finish as easy as lower solid finishes and the results would speak for themselves.

For years we used these type of fine finishing mops and there problematic design features that affected application.

Now days you can grab a 7 dollar finish mop from home depot, wash it in water a couple of times ( you really need to wash any mop before using it to apply a finish to get the small fibers out that didn't quite make the cut) or you will find millions of small fibers in the finish especially if you build the floor up with many coats and you are actually achieving high levels of clarity.

We like many companies products but always stock johnsons wax /diversey
Products that is now owned by the sealed air company. There finishes are always of the highest quality and they have scenario specific finishes not a one fits all. We also like the way most of not all of the diversey product self level which makes the end product stand out.
 
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Willy P

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I really like Rochester Midland's Thermo Gloss applied with microfiber pad. Even coats, less waste, less work,Wayyyy faster than filling a mop head with wax.
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...supplies/?N=5927804+8703506+3293223443&rt=rud
It depends on the floor, but sometimes I run a red pad over the stripped and rinsed floor and mostly burnish at least 48 hours after the finish has cured and sometimes a week. It depends on the floor. After the wait time, I use a hog hair to burn it and a white pad to polish it.


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Old Coastie

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VCT is, to me, its' own punishment. But we often get those jobs in conjunction with other work, so I really appreciate these tips too.
 

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