First thing I do on piss spots or any big spot is HWE. Even if it is just warming up the water. I drill them pretty hard and leave a clean square. Then when it is time to clean that area in full, I treat them as they were a nasty and spray a little odorcide of choice. I never understood why HWE'rs would fester up a nasty spot without removing the bulk of it first.dog piss
All these different options for urine removal (acid, oxidizer, enzyme)
Try using just water first. You might be surprised.
Less steps means less moisture, less wicking
And then take yourself out for fajitas
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Keep in mind, you never know what the customer "attempts" to do on that spot before you arrive. It could be some google concoction that the "lab scientist" has put together from her selection of chemicals under the sink or some bissell chemical as well.That's cleaning up great, but I still think I'd want to try and hit it with an acid and oxy. But as long as the customer is happy and you don't get a call back that's all that matters. Fajitas are delicious also.
All very good points. I see homes that try the Google home remedies a lot. I haven't used the 5 gallon bucket method in a long time. I do pretty similar to what you recommend, except I use an acid based prespray.Keep in mind, you never know what the customer "attempts" to do on that spot before you arrive. It could be some google concoction that the "lab scientist" has put together from her selection of chemicals under the sink or some bissell chemical as well.
So now we have a problem of dried chemicals sitting on top of urine and now our teachers tell us to dump boiling water with sodium percarbonate foaming and fizzing on top of it, only to reactivate the dried chemical that's been sitting and rising in ph to discover that you have a high risk of color loss
Or on using an enzyme on that spot. Enzymes and acid take time when there's another dried chemical on that spot. So you do what the "teacher" tells you again and spray the enzyme on that spot, now you're giving it time to gradually make it's way under the carpet to allow for a follow up call of wicking
So, instead of risking color loss or wicking, try this. It can't hurt.
1. Do as pictured: Just do a couple wand passes over the spots and dry pass as normal over the dry spots
2. Treat the whole room with your normal juice (preferably 8.5-10ph) in your HF and HWE as normal
3. Collect check and expect a compliment from your customer
And don't forget that dried urine is just yellow salt with some bacteria. And what happens with you put salt in hot water? It dissolves. So the goal is to liquify the dried urine so it can be rinsed out
Now if it's huge areas where a male/great dane pissed on several times, the 5 gallon bucket dump is the best method. But on 9 out of 10 jobs where these people love ankle biter shitzus, this method works
The carpet is treated after the first initial rinse then HWE'd again. My goal in this thread is to prevent wicking.Problem with only water is once uric acid dries, you need something to strip it from the fibers. Just water doesn’t do that.
Makes sense.The carpet is treated after the first initial rinse then HWE'd again. My goal in this thread is to prevent wicking.
Treating with the normal stuff we clean carpet with neutralizes the uric acid so it can be flushed properly. I was waiting for a comment like this to bring to attention
It feels good having the Odyssey as an option if wicking occurs anytime.The carpet is treated after the first initial rinse then HWE'd again. My goal in this thread is to prevent wicking.
Treating with the normal stuff we clean carpet with neutralizes the uric acid so it can be flushed properly. I was waiting for a comment like this to bring to attention
Makes sense bro.First thing I do on piss spots or any big spot is HWE. Even if it is just warming up the water. I drill them pretty hard and leave a clean square. Then when it is time to clean that area in full, I treat them as they were a nasty and spray a little odorcide of choice. I never understood why HWE'rs would fester up a nasty spot without removing the bulk of it first.
Welcome!Makes sense bro.
Trying.... I found this board gave me all theMakes sense bro.
Good. Now order yourself a crb and a couple of rolls of sticky tabs.Trying.... I found this board gave me all the
positive criticismI need. Been called out here a few times, and Im listening. This is the board that changed us, and let us re invent. Best thing that ever happened to my business, besides the opportunity my Uncle gave me to start. 1 year after coming in with Super Hack moves, MikeyP finally broke me in and taught me right, along with this board and classes. Made more friends in a year, than, honestly dont know...
I already learned from you in Texas bro. You da man. Lets run.
This works better on polyester, not so much nylon.dog piss
All these different options for urine removal (acid, oxidizer, enzyme)
Try using just water first. You might be surprised.
Less steps means less moisture, less wicking
And then take yourself out for fajitas
View attachment 125072 View attachment 125074
You're right when it's just urine on that old nylon. If there's a lovely coating of do it yourself cleaner on top of the urine before you arrive, you'll be surprised at what a simple rinse-before-treat will doThis works better on polyester, not so much nylon.
Also using an acid rinse will knock out ammonia smell.
Probably won't solve the problem.