Urine Question

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Aug 14, 2007
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Had a customer with couple bad urine stains, Pre Sprayed with CTI Urine Pre Treatment, cleaned room like normal, went back and Water Clawed the urine stains with hydocide, and finished with Urine Stain Remover to be safe.

Smell and stains for most part were gone, but customer called and stains look like they might be reappearing. Is there a better process to ensure stains wont come back?

Mike
 

Jimmy L

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Are you sure her dog hasn't gone back and remarked it's territory?
I always tell them as soon as I leave their dog will remark the spots that have been treated.

Never guarantee they will be removed 100%.



You could go back and spray a brown out type solution on them and call it done.

BSR by Steamgenie works good.
 
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Positive the dogs didn't go back and remark...I know the owners. Customer was fine with the results, i was just curious how i can permanently remove the stain and not have it come back.
 

sweendogg

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Well first off, flush flush flush.. I've found I get called back when I didn't take the time to first use atleast a gallon of water and the water claw to flush out just the urine. If you can flush and extract with the water claw till no urine is being removed, then you will have a better chance at letting the chemicals work. Then extract with that water claw as much as you can, clean reguarly and then dry quickly with fans.

Oh yeah,, everybody be sure to inform your customers that the powder deoderizers go on dry carpet if they HAVE to use them. They make a headache and a mess if they apply it wet and then you get to clean it without them telling you about it. :evil: :twisted: :mrgreen: :roll: :wink:
 
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Here's a situation that perfectly illustrates the value of using a UV blocker like CTI's "Black Out" as a last step in urine decontamination. The UV blocker wipes the UV signature from urine stains that cleaning will not touch. Therefore, if there is ever a question as to whether the "returned stains" are new deposits or old ones, the question can be quickly ascertained with an inspection with UV. If the stain glows, instead of an uncomfortable disagreement wit the customer, you have a new sale on the decon job for the new stains.
 

Walt

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Shawn Forsythe said:
Here's a situation that perfectly illustrates the value of using a UV blocker like CTI's "Black Out" as a last step in urine decontamination. The UV blocker wipes the UV signature from urine stains that cleaning will not touch. Therefore, if there is ever a question as to whether the "returned stains" are new deposits or old ones, the question can be quickly ascertained with an inspection with UV. If the stain glows, instead of an uncomfortable disagreement wit the customer, you have a new sale on the decon job for the new stains.

Shawn,

Does that mean it is impossible to remove the UV detectable color?
 
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Whether it is actually impossible is not known. However, there are not any cleaning products of which I am aware that will remove the UV signature. Not even the Block Out actually removes the UV taint. It simply blocks UV light penetration so that detectable fluorescence will not then occur. The whole purpose of the product is to effectively "reset" the fiber fluorescence characteristics with urine staining such that old deposits (treated) will not appear in subsequent UV inspections where there still is potential for new staining (the dog still lives there).

If indeed the visible stains reappear, but no UV signature exists, then it is safe to conclude that the cleaner then is possibly needing to assess his cleaning methodology wherein there is indeed residue either colored/discolored, residue leading to soil attraction or fiber/dye degradation from that residue.

Cleaners should always include a semblance of disclaimer from liability arising from fiber/dye degradation from old(aged) urine spots or those of undetermined age.
 

Ron Werner

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have to remember, you're soaking the carpet to the backing and you don't know what's down there. With it wet like that, any soiling will wick to the surface unless you flush it all out first
 

Larry Cobb

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Mike;

It is possible to remove the UV component with better spot removal procedures:
mustuv.jpg

This is a mustard spot with a strong green UV marking that was removed with our DC Powder Brightener AND a 9 Watt UV LED light.

The Dynachem Odor Attack had slightly better results on pet urine stains.

Larry
 
R

rotovacguy

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sweendogg said:
Well first off, flush flush flush.. I've found I get called back when I didn't take the time to first use atleast a gallon of water and the water claw to flush out just the urine. If you can flush and extract with the water claw till no urine is being removed, then you will have a better chance at letting the chemicals work. Then extract with that water claw as much as you can, clean reguarly and then dry quickly with fans.

Oh yeah,, everybody be sure to inform your customers that the powder deoderizers go on dry carpet if they HAVE to use them. They make a headache and a mess if they apply it wet and then you get to clean it without them telling you about it. :evil: :twisted: :mrgreen: :roll: :wink:







OK, this is the part that I don't understand.


What if the subfloor is chipboard, like 90% of the houses in this area. You pour a gallon of water on there and let in dwell for 30 minutes, you're going to have some problems, mold and dry rot. That claw will not pull out 100% of the water you dump on it.

I thought you could only do that if the custy has a cement subfloor.
 

sweendogg

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correct to the plastic if you can get to it.. but also when I flush.. I'm not giving 30 mintues dwell time, the flood and extract is poor water and immediatly claw it up, this process alones gets alot of the urine out of the carpet. You can add urine preconditioner to the water to help but if there is alot in the backing and pad, water will do a great job of getting the bulk of the urine out. Then after you have clawed suffienciently then use your urine products and let dwell, at that point you don't need to use a gallon of product because most of the urine has been removed. Just enough to wet the carpet and pad. Work it in, let dwell, claw as much moisture out as possible, and clean as normal. The key is to not let the moisture soak into the subfloor.. And if there was enough urine, this point is moot, because the urine has damaged the subfloor.

I'm even going to get into what the local chemdry franchise does. They soak the entire floor and leave it there for a day or two.. and the homeowner wondered why they had water damage. :roll:
 

Dolly Llama

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rotovacguy said:
OK, this is the part that I don't understand.


What if the subfloor is chipboard, like 90% of the houses in this area. You pour a gallon of water on there and let in dwell for 30 minutes, you're going to have some problems, mold and dry rot. That claw will not pull out 100% of the water you dump on it.
.


"chip board" ( oriented strand board, commonly called OSB) doesn't fall apart that quite that easy.
as far as mold, I'll let someone more knowledgeable address that, but i figure it's of little concern when you're treating an area already full of bacteria growth (urine contamination)

..L.T.A.
 
J

jpgalley

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Flush,flush,flush and then flush again. Then use what ever urine product you have. The key is to get as much out as possible. Also remember that the area will be larger under the carpet then it appears on top.
Jeff :)
 

steve frasier

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flush it again with the pet zone and get it as dry as possible then spray it with 30 vol peroxide

about a month ago I had a repeat customer ask us to come out and remove some dog urine from her new carpet and the dog was also on fish oil pills for a skin condition, Bobi says she has already treated the spots but the fish and urine smell is still there

she says that she purchased some expensive carpet along with the pet pad

we get there, close the shades and break out the led urine light

Bobi is watching with the yellow glasses and I don't really find any of the spots in the middle of the room where she said it was so I start sniffing around and find the spots and treat them with some bac out and water claw them

note; if they have pet pad don't pour to much product on the spot

starting to check the room for any more urine spots and find a few, while holding the led urine light on the spots while spraying them with bacout, the led lighted urine spots disappeared

I was kind of amazed, never seen that before, been gonna ask her what type of carpet it was but haven't
 

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