Hardwood cleaning with the Maroon Pad/tile wand process or Dirt dragon/Tykoat?
- Thread starter BIG WOOD
- Start date
First off, my opinion on the maroon pad with the tile wand has its ups and downs.
The plus is time. You can run that maroon pad over the floor and go behind it with the wand without worrying about your tank getting full.
The negative I feel is what is your customer thinking when they see this process?
You’re scratching the hell out of their floor
You’re shooting water in between the boards of the wood with the wand.
My guess is they’re sweating a little bit right now
I’ve done the wood floor several times that way and my customers were always “relieved” or happy with how it turned out
I also learned that process from Bridgepoint’s hardwood process with their line of chemicals combined with advice from veterans like you guys.
My take on this matter:
@Tom Forsythe, your hardwood finishes don’t have enough solids in it to make the coatings last more than a month of solid traffic
The maroon pad seems sloppy to me
And the tile wand should stay on tile. I know that’s gonna cause an uproar with poking the bear on this, but I love harassing Mikey, so bring it on
The plus is time. You can run that maroon pad over the floor and go behind it with the wand without worrying about your tank getting full.
The negative I feel is what is your customer thinking when they see this process?
You’re scratching the hell out of their floor
You’re shooting water in between the boards of the wood with the wand.
My guess is they’re sweating a little bit right now
I’ve done the wood floor several times that way and my customers were always “relieved” or happy with how it turned out
I also learned that process from Bridgepoint’s hardwood process with their line of chemicals combined with advice from veterans like you guys.
My take on this matter:
@Tom Forsythe, your hardwood finishes don’t have enough solids in it to make the coatings last more than a month of solid traffic
The maroon pad seems sloppy to me
And the tile wand should stay on tile. I know that’s gonna cause an uproar with poking the bear on this, but I love harassing Mikey, so bring it on
Next is my opinion on the Floor machines/tykoat, streetshoe method
I’ve already done enough hardwood jobs to pay that machine off. Not only hardwood...I’ve also cleaned ENGINEERED floating wood floor with no negative results. Was I lucky or did the lower pressure water application make it possible to clean?
I’ve seen how much more impressed and relaxed the customer was when they saw this process and I love the no dust method with Tykoat bonding chemical vs the maroon pad.
I just did a 2600sq ft restaraunt dining room and had to add an extra step with a mist spray of heavy duty chemical to break up the mop water kitchen grease with a red pad before I used the machine to get as much cleaned as I could and it did wonders without overwetting and it made the floor so much drier than any tile wand would’ve ever done. I’ll attach before after pics in the next post
I’ve already done enough hardwood jobs to pay that machine off. Not only hardwood...I’ve also cleaned ENGINEERED floating wood floor with no negative results. Was I lucky or did the lower pressure water application make it possible to clean?
I’ve seen how much more impressed and relaxed the customer was when they saw this process and I love the no dust method with Tykoat bonding chemical vs the maroon pad.
I just did a 2600sq ft restaraunt dining room and had to add an extra step with a mist spray of heavy duty chemical to break up the mop water kitchen grease with a red pad before I used the machine to get as much cleaned as I could and it did wonders without overwetting and it made the floor so much drier than any tile wand would’ve ever done. I’ll attach before after pics in the next post
This was just two coats
I had to work to preserve this damaged floor from golfers metal cleats in the 50s that they wanted to stay that way. The first 3 are before. I had to dry crb it to get the sand out fromnin the big gaps
And I was also told from one of Basic Coating’s chemists that you Can use Streetshoe in place of minwax polyurethane on bare wood if the need arises to avoid the dangerous VOC and has a much quicker cure time. You’d just need to do 4 instead of 2 coats
So that’s my feedback on the process of preserving hardwood floors.
And I was also told from one of Basic Coating’s chemists that you Can use Streetshoe in place of minwax polyurethane on bare wood if the need arises to avoid the dangerous VOC and has a much quicker cure time. You’d just need to do 4 instead of 2 coats
So that’s my feedback on the process of preserving hardwood floors.
Tom Forsythe
Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2006
- Messages
- 486
Our wood system has a purpose for beginners as a simple diversification. More solids in the Preservation finish will get alot of cleaners into trouble as it takes more skill to lay a heavier solids finish. 20 years ago we were testing a system with more solids. I remember vividly the obvious ridge I left in a wood floor at Dave Hanks house. This alerted us to potential difficulties for our customer base in laying the finish. If you get more involved with wood, then you will have to expand with other vendors who have different products for more complex systems. This is an A to C system for us, while for cleaning carpets we have an A to Z product line. Our wood system is what it is and going beyond it entails going beyond us.
I love you Tom, but I watched a 5min video on how to apply streetshoe with a t-bar and this was my first job with this product. No problems. That’s a poor excuse to sell a product that can be improved. I strongly suggest you up the bar on your finishes
What did you apply the finish with at your friend’s house?
I think it would but why would you change the jets when tile and grout is the main reason for that tool?
Doug Rice
Supportive Member
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2011
- Messages
- 425
Matt on that heavily worn floor a T Bar applicator would have filled up all those voids creating a big mess. Some times less is more.
I agree. And I saw it fill in those gaps. I went behind those areas with a dry rag to absorb the puddles.
Old Coastie
Supportive Member
You could lay it down with an HVLP sprayer and shields. On a rough surface like that one, it would control for puddling.
Hack Attack
Member
possibly lucky, there is a big difference between some engineered floors just like there is in carpets
I had a brand new showroom that I thankfully dont do anymore, specifically said on the maintaince specs and warranty "damp flat mop only followed immediatly by dry"
30k install so I followed there specs, it always looked crap and had some minor swelling if you looked hard
I lost the contract, new service provider played the hero... new floor installed
Tom Forsythe
Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2006
- Messages
- 486
One principle we like to follow is to not allow your product line go beyond your technical support. We only sell basic products for areas where we have limited technical support. I know of many who started with our wood system and went beyond it using other wood services and vendors as a major part of their business. We are happy to have a part in a customer's successful diversification.
Our wood system is such a product line and will stay as it is unless we add another level of technical support. Our company has purchased a few companies with a strong stone background which allows us to expand our stone service line-up based on the acquired technical expertise.
Our wood system is such a product line and will stay as it is unless we add another level of technical support. Our company has purchased a few companies with a strong stone background which allows us to expand our stone service line-up based on the acquired technical expertise.
I respect that. I do give your company credit for getting me into hardwood cleaning and preservation.
steve_64
Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2012
- Messages
- 13,371
I've seen some coatings peel off from improper cleaning. Too wet and wrong product from the homeowner.
