Wool trouble

Discussion in 'the CleAn Room' started by ruff, Oct 3, 2016.

By ruff on Oct 3, 2016 at 6:04 PM
  1. ruff
    ruff

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    A good friend that has techs working for him ran into a problem. I have not personally seen it, but received his description. It is an area next to an intake vent. Urine from pets.
    Technician misdiagnosed carpet and did not realize it was wool.
    • Used Matrix urine treatment that has peroxide and is 10 ph.
    • Rinsed (one earth).
    • Carpet got brown/yellowish (not a jute backing! so it ain't celulosic browning. Again I have not been there.)
    • Stain Magic- for wool
    • Later they tried Chemspec browning treatment and followed with acid rinse.
    So now the wool has been exposed to peroxide, 10 PH, strong acid and an acid rinse. As of now it may be salvage or replacement. He could not tell me if the browning was just at tips of fiber or all the way down. At this stage I am not sure how much of a chemical load of different chemicals are there.

    I was wondering if.
    1. Rinse to remove chemicals.
    2. A mild reducing agent may help. With buffing. And if yes, which one. The acid residue may boost it so it may need to be rinsed. or:
    3. Buffing with an encap with a mild peroxide.

    Any ideas?
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2016

Comments

Discussion in 'the CleAn Room' started by ruff, Oct 3, 2016.

    1. Desk Jockey
      Desk Jockey

      Corey

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      Could it be rust from the vent?
      ruff likes this.
    2. ruff
      ruff

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      No.
      It is about 3 feet in diameter now. I don't know if there's wicking involved coming from sub floor, as they did the urine flooding with a claw. IT could also be damage to the wool from the peroxide in Matrix and the high PH. Also I have no idea if the wool is starting to become brittle.

      Inserting a piece of plastic between pad and carpet may help if it is.
    3. Bruce Humphrey
      Bruce Humphrey

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      If it was me I would speed dry and start over with trying to work on it. Was it dried first before trying the other chems?
      ruff likes this.
    4. Desk Jockey
      Desk Jockey

      Corey

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      I'd disengage the installation remove the pad. Clean, dry and install.new pad and reinstall.
    5. T Monahan
      T Monahan

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      Rinse with water only through a water claw to get out all the residue. Start over and use a U-Turn dilution as described for rug and urine issues: Mix 1-2 ounces of concentrate per one gallon of water. Saturate area and allow a dwell time of 30 minutes. Rinse and extract using a water claw if you have one. We like to use this SOS tool offered by Centrum Force: https://www.centrumforce.com/products/sos-sub-surface-extraction-tool
      ruff, Mikey P and Mark Saiger like this.
    6. roro
      roro

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    7. Cleanworks
      Cleanworks

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      I have a similar issue. I do warranty work for a rental machine company. A lady rented a machine to clean her thin, wall to wall wool carpet from her ensuite to her bedroom door. Aprox 30 sqft. Since she had the machine for 4 hours, she wanted to get her moneys worth and did it 3 times. The carpets browned and the rental company rep came out and used traffic lane cleaner and urine treatment and made it worse. My usual treatment is a fresh water rinse, blow dry followed by an acidic rinse and a light browning treatment sprayed topically and allowed to dry. Usually, even on my worst jobs, I get an immediate 50% improvement and the rest fades out as it dries. I may have to return just to do a repeat spray of browning treatment. In this case when I rinsed with my acidic product, I could see I was making it worse. I dried it up as much as I could, vacuuming until no more water was being removed. I let the customer to let me know how it turned out. I just went there today and not much difference. Although, it is not recommended on wool, I treated with Esteam Eliminate as a last resort. (peroxide/ammonia solution) I got about a 25% improvement and am waiting for the customer to call me tomorrow to see how it works. This is a very delicate wool nap, not really suited to rotary or cylindrical agitation. I think it would distort the pile. The entire carpet, including the backing is about 1/4 inch thick. Any other bright ideas?
      ruff likes this.
    8. bob vawter
      bob vawter

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      Ofer......you can't tell from Wool carpet. .....?

      Oya vay


      Is that how ya spel it?
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      Last edited: Oct 3, 2016
    9. Mikey P
      Mikey P

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      wasn't us..
    10. Goomer
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      I recently got a tufted wool area rug that had a small area that got wet during storage and stayed wet for too long and had those dark rot stains.

      With a green light to try whatever means I could to at the least improve it, and having the rare opportunity to play with strong peroxide on wool, I went to town on it with a sprayer of 30V and a Microfiber towel.

      I was surprised at how much it lightened them up and deliberately did not speed dry it hoping the peroxide would continue to do it's thing.

      Next day.......whole area completely brown.

      Not sure of the backing, but as far as browning goes, I don't think I got it too wet only using a hand sprayer, but browning/wicking may still have been a factor.

      Is there an equivalent to celluosic browning related to animal hair, where on of it's components will break down and turn brown when exposed to a particular product or heavily oxidized?

      I was able to correct it with the same sprayer and damp Microfiber towel, but this time spraying the 30V on the bonnet and buffing the area, as opposed to directly hitting the area heavy with the sprayer, and then speed-drying the area with a fan.

      I am not sure what role oxidation played in the correction, because I was getting decent brown transfer to the towel, and even rinsed the towel out a couple of times.

      Not sure if this applies to your situation, but it makes me think that doing a damp white towel test on it first would be a good idea, and go with the encap/H20 buff if you get any transfer, and then get a fan on it.
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    11. Rick J
      Rick J

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      Since yours is tufted, and not knotted, and has that water damage, is it latexed, and could that be the culprit? The latex breaking down from the long term moisture.
      ruff likes this.
    12. Papa John
      Papa John

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      Try Tom's suggestions 1st. Might have to paint with an airbrush as a last resort.. I thinks it's browning caused by the latex..
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    13. Jimmy L
      Jimmy L

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      I wonder if that rental cleaning solution contained optical brightners?
      Compounding the problem?
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    14. Larry Cobb
      Larry Cobb

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    15. Ray Burnfield
      Ray Burnfield

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      Ofer's friend is a friend of mine as well.
      Here are the pictures:

      Attached Files:

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    16. Papa John
      Papa John

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      I'm wondering if it might be rust from tack strip or failed flashing under sliding door. Or pigment run off from deck stain? Try rust remove on a small portion for the rust.

      The shape looks like a half round door mat. Maybe it's bht browning from trapped glue fumes which were also heated by heater vent.. I don't that's an intake vent.
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    17. ruff
      ruff

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      Bawb vey.
    18. bob vawter
      bob vawter

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      I musta hit a nerve. .....
    19. Goomer
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      The original issue was actually the wool itself damaged.

      I have seen it before on wool that was wet for a long period of time, it actually gets black spots on it, almost as if it actually rots over time.

      http://mikeysboard.com/threads/wool-water-damage.266895/

      IMG_20130519_103128_zps8dd49378.jpg
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